Locavore

Books – Goat: Cooking and Eating by James Whetlor

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We should all be eating more goat. It’s sustainable, ethical, highly nutritious and very delicious. Why, then, does it remain so underused and misunderstood? GOAT tells the story of how food and farming culture developed in the west without the help of this staple of global agriculture, and showcases the best recipes from around the world using this delicious meat.

Cooked fast and lean, or slow-cooked in curries, stews, braises and roasts, from kebabs to stir-fries to sausages, goat is the one meat we should all be eating more of. With 100 dishes created by Cabrito’s founder James Whetlor, plus a foreword by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, and guest recipes from world-renowned chefs including Yotam Ottolenghi, Gill Meller, Neil Rankin and Jeremy Lee, Goat is a ground-breaking, bold cookbook. Essential reading for anyone with even a passing interest in food and the way we eat today, and set to be the definitive guide on the subject for years to come, Goat is a genre-defining book. 50 per cent of the royalties from the book will be donated to Farm Africa.

Locavore recently spoke to James, and the conversation will be featured in Issue 2 of Locavore, due for publication 3rd May.  Below, we share two recipes from the book.

James will be cooking and talking about goat at the River Cottage Food Fair on the 26th and 27th of May.  For more information, click here.

Kid Khoresht with Rhubarb

This is really good made in a slow cooker, if you have one. Serve with chopped salad and yoghurt sauce. It can also be topped with rose petals.

Serves 4

700g/1lb 9oz diced kid

2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil

(or use butter)

2 large onions, finely diced

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

pinch of saffron strands (optional)

¼ nutmeg, freshly grated

1 tablespoon honey

3 ½ tablespoons pomegranate

molasses

500ml/2 cups kid stock (or use water

or chicken stock)

2 sticks of rhubarb, roughly chopped

salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

Season the meat with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a pan and add the diced meat. Fry until just coloured on all sides, then transfer to a plate.

Add the rest of the oil and the onions to the same pan and cook until soft, about 10 minutes.

Add the spices and cook for 1 minute, then add back the meat, with the honey and pomegranate molasses.

Add the stock to the pan and bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and cook for about 1 ½ hours over a low heat, stirring every now and then until the meat is completely tender and the sauce is thick (cook uncovered after 45 minutes if the sauce is too thin).

Add the rhubarb for the final 15 minutes. Check the seasoning, adding more salt, pepper or honey to taste before serving.

 

Hay Barbecue Goat

Hay was used in the past to insulate cooked foods – roasts were packed into boxes lined with hay to keep them hot when transported to outside events or to a separate kitchen. The hay gave such a lovely deep flavour that recipes were developed to capture it.

Serve with redcurrant jelly and a green salad.

Serves 8–10

1 bone-in leg of kid, about 2.5kg/5 ½ lb, at room temperature

1 shopping bagful of unsprayed hay

100g/scant ½ cup softened butter

3 tablespoons each of chopped fresh sage and thyme

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ teaspoon cracked black pepper

1 generous glass of white wine

salt

 

Season the leg all over with salt and preheat the barbecue to high. Soak two-thirds of the hay in cold water for 10 minutes, then squeeze it dry.

Get a high-sided barbecue cooking container ready: foil and an old baking tray or a foil tray, or construct a strong foil parcel.

Mix the butter with the herbs, garlic, pepper and a pinch of salt.

When the barbecue is ready, put the un-soaked dry hay on it, then put the leg onto a rack and place directly on top of the hay, cover the barbecue and smoke for 5 minutes (the hay will flare up and burn very quickly). Remove the leg and allow to cool slightly, while giving the barbecue a quick brush.

Using a sharp knife, prick the leg about 20 times all over, about 2cm / 3/4inch deep. Smear with the flavoured butter, pushing it into the holes.

Put half the drained hay in your prepared barbecue container and drizzle the wine over the hay. Place the leg on top of the wine-soaked hay and put the remaining hay on top. Cover with a lid, or a double layer of foil wrapped well around the edge.

Cook the leg using indirect heat at 180°C/350°F for about 2 hours or until the internal temperature of the meat is about 65°C/150°F. Uncover and cook for about 20 minutes more, then allow to rest for 30 minutes, covered, before carving, scraping away any of the hay before carving.

Any juices from the pan can be poured off, strained and used for gravy, or used to warm through side dishes.

GOAT: COOKING AND EATING by James Whetlor (Quadrille, £20.00)

Photography: Mike Lusmore

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